Sunday, January 8, 2012

Removing Mildew - Builders Tips

!±8± Removing Mildew - Builders Tips

Getting rid of mildew on walls
The amount one job that will make the world of distinction in many bathrooms and laundries is painting out old mildew stains. These occur on the ceiling and the tops of the walls where condensation leaves the exterior wet after a shower. Getting rid of the mildew is a two-step process

1) Clean off what you can and kill the scores with a bleach solution.
2) Cover the stains with a good-quality acrylic paint; use low sheen or semi-gloss and ask your paint shop for an anti-mould additive. It you want a flat finish, buy a paint that's formulated to resist mould and mildew like Zinsser.

Remember that good ventilation is important to preclude condensation and help solve the qoute long term, so make sure you have an exhaust fan that works.

Replacing grubby silicone
Mildew stains can work on the silicone seals in wet areas--like where the bath meets the wall or where your kitchen bench meets the splash back. Sometimes the edges of the seal form a minute black line where moisture has obviously worked its way just under the edge of the silicone and harboured the mildew growth. The respond is to remove and replace the old silicone with a new mould-resistant one:
- Cut away as much of the old silicone as you can, using a utility knife.
- Using a scraper, apply silicone remover over the rest of the old silicone, spreading it about 5 mm thick.
- Wait about two hours and then you can remove the old material with the scraper. Clean up the area with a cloth soaked in methylated spirits. You're now ready to apply a new seal.
- Use a caulking gun to apply an even Lead of silicone along the whole joint. Give the bead a good spray of window cleaner and then put your hand inside an old plastic bag or a latex glove before wiping away the excess with the tip of your finger. Only wipe it once. The window cleaner on both sides of the bead will stop the silicone spreading up the wall, and the plastic bag will fetch the excess for easy disposal. You can mask up with masking tape if you're concerned about getting a super straight line, much as you would when painting. You can also wipe an ice cube along the silicone for a professional, smooth finish.


Removing Mildew - Builders Tips

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Thursday, January 5, 2012

Build Your Own Concrete Countertops

!±8± Build Your Own Concrete Countertops

If you've ever considered replacing your counters with concrete countertops you've come to the right place. Here you can learn how to build them from scratch. Are you ready to build a countertop that will leave a lasting impression?

Concrete is very popular in modern building. It's used to replicate other material types like wood, clay pavers, roof shakers, or even natural stone. But today designers are taking it a step further. Concrete is being used to create unique counters in the kitchen and bathroom. Just add the right color and texture and you've got a great finish to the room.

There are definitely other countertops that are a lot easier to install than concrete. Pouring concrete is messy and heavy work and it takes some practice to get a surface that looks great. The payoff is that the cost of materials is very cheap and the end result is impressive and one heck of a conversation piece!

In other parts of the world concrete has been used to make counters for centuries. But in North America it's a relatively new concept and you will definitely impress your friends and family!

It's always a good ideas to start with a small project. Practice the techniques. Once you've got it mastered start to play with colors until you get the perfect color you want for your counters.

1. Make The Form

Use ¾" melamine wood to build your form. You want the plastic finish because it slows down the drying of the concrete which increases the strength. And it will stop the concrete from sticking. Join sides to the bottom with a pneumatic stapler. Careful you don't split your wood.

2. Don't drill or cut the slab after it's built so create your voids prior and don't use particleboard because the edges will absorb water.

Pour The Concrete

1. You need to fortify the slab using reinforcing rod and polypropylene fibers using a diamond lath. It's the key to a strong countertop.

2. Cut the diamond lath 1" short of the edge using snips. Install No 3 rebar around the sink cutout. Make sure you do all your measuring and cutting prior to mixing up the concrete.

3. Pour the concrete in layers to minimize the time between each step of the process.

4. How durable your countertop is will depend on how well the mix is prepared. Use a mason's hoe to thoroughly blend all the dry ingredients.

5. Measure the liquids and carefully mix them all together.

6. Add them in stages.

7. Add 2 quarts of white Portland for every 60 pound bag of concrete.

8. As concrete cures it cracks but the diamond lath, poly fibers,, and rod will keep the microscopic cracks tight.

9. Pack a one inch strip of concrete along the edges

10. Fill the middle with the reinforced concrete then add reinforcing rods and diamond lath and then layer of regular concrete.

11. In order for the different concretes to look like one seamless block you need to keep the color and the consistency the same. So no guessing on ingredients, instead measure everything!

12. The concrete used for countertops is a lot firmer than regular old cement so you will need to press it hard and compact it well in the form. Use a magnesium float and get ready for some serious manual labor.

13. Add your concrete to fill the low spots then smooth. Repeat until surface is smooth and well packed.

14. Let your concrete set for two hours then take your steel hand trowel to the surface. Don't overwork the concrete or you'll get aggregate popping up. If you see water puddles then you need to let it set for another 30 minutes.

15. If the weather is really hot you'll want to cover with wet burlap or plastic to slow down the setting process.

16. Do not remove the forms for 48 hours. Let the concrete cure.

17. When it's time remove the forms by separating them at the joints with a flat pry bar.

18. Sand any sharp edges and corners using an orbital sander and 100 grit sandpaper. Make sure you wear an appropriate mask.

19. Etch the surface using a muriatic acid and water solution and then rinse thoroughly and air dry.

20. Now prepare your latex additive, liquid pigment, and Portland cement until it is about the thickness of peanut butter.

21. Use your rubber grout float to apply it to the surfaces. Then skiff the surfaces with the float to fill the voids.

22. The filler needs to cure for about one hour

23. Sand with 180 grit discs until it's as smooth as you want it.

24. Let cue for a full three weeks.

25. Now it's time to install. You are going to need lots of help because the slab is not only awkward it's heavy and it will need to be supported so as not to cause stress cracks.

26. Apply a thin bead of silicone caulk where the countertop and wall meet.

27. Seal the surface with your sealer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

28. Once the surface has dried buff with your Scotchbrite pad.

29. Lastly apply the acrylic clear finish. This will give you the high gloss surface.

30. Use a buffer to bring it to a terrific shine.

That's it! You've installed your concrete countertops. Don't they look great?


Build Your Own Concrete Countertops

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Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Dap 18156 Clear Acrylic Latex Caulk With Silicone 10.1-Ounce

!±8±Dap 18156 Clear Acrylic Latex Caulk With Silicone 10.1-Ounce

Brand : DAP
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Price : $2.79
Post Date : Jan 03, 2012 08:34:05
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DAP 18156 ALEX PLUS Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone Superior quality, multi-purpose acrylic latex caulk plus silicone. Highly flexible and durable. Excellent adhesion. Cured caulk is mildew resistant. Interior/exterior use. Paintable. Water clean-up. 35 Year Durability Guarantee. Exceeds ASTM Specification C 834. DAP 18156 ALEX PLUS Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone Features: Premium quality Moisture and mildew resistant for caulking around window and door frames and siding corner joints Provides excellent adhesion to glass, ceramic, wood, metal, brick, stone and more 11 fl. oz Clear DAP 18156 ALEX PLUS Acrylic Latex Caulk Plus Silicone Specifications Unit Size: 10.1 fl. oz Color: Clear SKU: 7079818156 Case Pack: 12 Weight: 9.75 lbs Dimensions: 8x6x12 Cases / Pallet: 108

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